Aquarium Plant Substrates Planting for Freshwater Aquarium Plants

The term 'substrate' refers to the planting medium used on the bottom of an aquarium. Similar to soil in a garden, substrates are needed by plants in order for them to root, obtain nutrients, and propagate.Keeping, maintaining, and ultimately propagating your aquarium plants is truly a joy, and it starts with a good substrate.

In natural environments, the substrate is typically slightly warmer than the water. It is also full of nutrients and dense. These things help the plants to root better, they receive better nutrition, and the warmer root conditions help in the growth of the plants. It is important to determine which soil is best for plant growth in the

In the aquarium, maintaining the substrate once it is set is usually fairly simple. Not much is needed. This is due to the normal activity of the aquarium. The fish and plants produce and release enough organic products, that then collect in the substrate, and in turn help the plants grow.
Once you've determined what type or types of plants you wish to keep, you can then determine which soil is best for plant growth in your planted aquarium.

• For choosing the best types of plants for your aquascape, see:

Selecting Aquarium Plants Aquarium Design and Types of Aquatic Plants

Pet Supply Comparison Shopping

Choosing a Substrate: There are several things to take into consideration when choosing your planting medium. Which types of substrates to use are determined by:

• First, the needs of the plants.
• Then the type of aquarium equipment you will be using.
• And finally the overall aquarium design you are looking to achieve.

Determining what type of substrate to use is extremely important for the plants. For healthy aquatic plants, the substrate provides nutrients for normal plant growth development and plant propagation. Several substrates available in most stores include: common pea gravel, aquarium gravel, sand, nutrient-rich and soil-based substrates, clay substrates, and quartz gravel (lime-free gravel). Often, different substrates can be mixed to obtain an optimum environment for your particular types of plants.

Substrate Considerations: There are different points to consider with each type of substrate such as the size of the particles and the depth of each substrate level.

• Size of the substrate: Usually, you don't want substrates that have large particle size because it allows more water to pass through and also acts as a debris trap. Particle sizes should be approximately 0.04 to 0.12 inches in diameter.

• Depth of the substrate: The depth of the substrate should be considered. How deep it is mostly depends on the type of plants present. Plants with longer roots need deeper substrates than plants with shorter roots. Usually a good rule of thumb is to have a substrate depth of between 2 and 4 inches.
• Mineral and Organic Content: Another factor is the mineral and organic contents of the soil. Much of this is often provided by the aquarium water and the other organisms living in the aquarium, but nutrient-rich substrates are available if needed.

Substrate Layers:
The four main substrates layers are: base substrates, rooting substrates, nutrient-rich substrates, and top level substrates.

Base substrates: A base substrate is usually sand. Base substrates aren't usually necessary, except in the case of heating cables present on the bottom. In nature the substrate is usually warmer than the water, and the use of heating cables can simulate this in the planted aquarium. If you are using a heating cable, you will want a layer of sand that is about 1" - 1 1/2" deep to cover the cable.

Rooting substrates: The rooting substrates are the main body of the substrate, designed to help anchor the plants. They do contain some nutrients, but are dense enough so that not too much water can be passed through. This layer is generally about 2" deep.
Quart gravel or lime-free substrates are ideal as rooting substrates. Some of these substrates include products called flourite, acrilite, or Onyx sand (a newer product from Seachem). Soil or potting soil is not often used because it is difficult to keep from clouding the water. It can be used and then covered with a heavier top level substrate, but you may still experience a muddying of the water.

Nutrient-rich substrates: Nutrient-rich substrates contain high levels of nutrients and only a thin layer of them should be used. This layer is used solely for the benefit of the plants and are designed to be used in limited quantities. Some nutrient-rich substrates include laterite and soil or potting soil. Laterite is too rich in nutrients for a rooting substrate and should be used sparingly. It can be added by rolling it up into little balls and placing the balls next to the plant roots.

Top level substrates: The top level substrate is the one that is visible to viewers and does not serve any other major function. This is a good place for coarser gravels and can be quite decorative, depending on the type of aquarium scene you are creating.

Substrate Types:

Common Pea Gravel: This gravel is very similar to what you would see in a natural environment. Used alone the normal common pea gravel sold in stores is generally not ideal for plants. Pea gravel is fairly loose thereby making it easy for water to flow through it, thus cooling the roots, oxygenating the gravel, and removing nutrients.
You can however use the smallest grade for a rooting medium though a lime-free quartz gravel is a better alternative. This gravel does work well as a top layer over finer substrates, or combined with other substrates to obtain a more realistic 'river' type display.

Quartz Gravel (lime-free substrate): Quartz gravel or a lime-free substrate is ideal as a rooting medium for plants. You can get it in a golden brown, black or white.

Colored (aquarium) Gravel: This is much like the common pea gravel and is also not ideal for plants. Again it is fairly loose and allows for easy water flow through it.
It can be mixed with other substrates for a visual variation, and will work well as a top layer over finer substrates. Light gray gravel is not a good choice however, as it causes distress in the fish due to how strongly the light is reflected off of it.

Calcius gravels: Crushed coral and other calcius sands or gravels that are offered for saltwater aquariums are high in calcium. They should be avoided unless you need a high pH and water hardness, few plants want this. These gravels work well in freshwater fish aquariums that are designed for African cichlids that need these high levels.

Sand: Sand is very fine, often even dusty. The 'silver sand' sold in aquarium shops is totally inert. Sand will compact and prevent any water movement resulting in a lack of oxygen.
Though sand can be used in a thin layer as a rooting medium for some plants, you will want to stir it occasionally to keep it from compacting. It is generally used as a base layer over heating cables.

Soil, Potting Soil: This substrate can be tricky to use as it can have too many nutrients and it may encourage algae growth. Also it is difficult to keep it from clouding the water.
Potting Soil is sometimes used as a thin nutrient-rich substrate layer and covered with a heavier top substrate. It has also been effectively used in permanent pots that are covered with a heavier top substrates. The potted method can be used in aquariums with undergravel filters.

Nutrient-rich Substrates: These are a long term source of nutrients that are vital to the plants. They should be used in limited quantities of either very thin layers between other substrate layers or as small pellets placed by the roots of plants. See the Nutrient rich layer described above for some of these products.

How to Use Gravel Vacuum Your Home Aqurium

Cleaning the aquarium is very important to keep your fish. One is cleaning the gravel aquarium. But know how to properly use aquarium gravel vacuum can make the experience less than homework.

A gravel vacuum is a tool that should be in every aquarist’s arsenal. Not only does it make water changes easier, but will save time on such routine maintenance. By removing excess waste and organic matter from the substrate, fish health will improve due to the resulting decrease in ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. The efficiency also allows one to clean a larger area, and maneuver into caves and hiding spots where debris can accumulate.

Cleaning Freshwater Aquariums with Gravel or Rocky Substrate

Some gravel vacuums come with special attachments or heads that are designed to start the siphoning process by shaking the vacuum. Remove these attachments so that all that is remaining is the cylindrical siphon head attached to the hose.

Before starting, make sure that the hose end of the vacuum is placed securely in a bucket or similar container to catch the discarded aquarium water. Gravel vacuums are gravity fed, meaning that whatever container is being used must be placed below the aquarium. If it is placed at an equal or lower level, the vacuum may not be able to start or maintain the siphoning process.

Submerge the cylindrical head of the vacuum in the aquarium until it fills with water. When full, remove the head from the water. The water will begin to drain into the bucket and the cylinder will empty. Before it empties completely, re-submerge it in the aquarium. A pocket of air will form and flow through the vacuum. This trapped air passes through the hose and creates a siphoning effect that will continuously draw water through the vacuum until the head is removed from the water. Be cautious as to not let the bucket overflow.

Push the vacuum head into the gravel. The vacuum will draw gravel up into the cylindrical head, pulling with it debris, fish waste, and organic matter. If gravel is drawn too far into the cylinder or begins to be drawn into the hose, either tap the vacuum head to dispense the gravel, or remove the vacuum from the water and start over.

Sift through the gravel slowly, and try to cover as much area as possible. Make sure to take extra care in cleaning in caves and hiding spots, as these areas tend to accumulate the most waste. Be cautious as to not drain more than 30-40 percent of the aquarium water, which could result in the decimation of beneficial bacteria colonies.

Using a Gravel Vacuum in Saltwater and in Aquariums with Fine Sand

One of the major complaints regarding gravel vacuums is the difficulty in not sucking up sand into the vacuum hose. There a few simple tricks to prevent this from happening.

When vacuuming sand and other fine substrates, do not plunge the vacuum head directly into the substrate. Unlike gravel and larger rocks, waste doesn’t usually collect under the surface or between substrate particles. It usually settles on the top. Wave the vacuum head over the surface lightly in an attempt to collect the organic matter and waste that has settled on top. You can also lightly swirl the vacuum head to kick up any waste and immediately siphon it out.

If sand is drawn into the vacuum, pinch the hose in order to reduce the flow rate. When this happens, water will still be drawn through the vacuum, but the force of the suction will not be so great as to draw in the sand. Lightly tap the vacuum head to remove any sand, or remove the vacuum from the water and start over. This technique will also work in saltwater aquariums with living sand or crushed coral.

Cleaning Very Small or Delicate Aquariums with an Aquarium Vacuum

Some aquariums are just too small or oddly shaped to clean with a gravel vacuum. Also, there may be situations in which the water cannot be disturbed, such as breeding tanks with bubble nests or delicate planted aquaria. To combat this, remove the entire vacuum head so that all that is remaining is the hose. Dip a length of the hose in the water and allow it to fill. Remove the hose from the water until it begins to drain. Before the water empties from the hose, place a thumb or finger over the hole to block the water flow. Now place the hose tip back in the water and cease blocking the flow. A siphon effect will be created, and now the hose alone will act as a very small gravel vacuum, allowing the aquarist to clean and navigate in very small spaces without creating much disturbance.

A gravel vacuum is an essential tool for any home aquarist, and regular aquarium cleaning and water changes will always help lead one to success with healthy, happy fish.

Simple Steps to Buy Aquarium Gravel

Aquarium gravel is very important for your aquarium. Color and type of aquarium gravel you not only highlights your fish in your own unique style, but also gravel harbor beneficial bacteria that your aquarium. Type of gravel you choose depends on the type of fish and aquarium species you have.

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions

Step 1
Pick common aquarium gravel for fish-only aquariums. Use fine gravel if you have bottom feeders in the tank. Sand is also appropriate to use in these tanks.

Step 2
Provide an environment for marine and reef wildlife in your aquarium with aragonite and crushed coral. In this kind of aquarium, it's important to have gravel with calcium and magnesium to help balance the pH level.

Step 3
Grow plants in your aquarium with two layers of gravel. The bottom layer should consist of vermiculite and laterite. These types of gravel actually store water and nutrients for your plants. A top layer of regular gravel or sand will prevent your plants' nutrients from washing out.

Step 4
Consider your personal style. Within the accepted guidelines of appropriate gravel, there are numerous options to pick and choose colors to match your style. Pick something that you can stick with because it takes a lot of effort to change your gravel once you have an established aquarium.

Tips & Warnings
Some popular types of gravel may be aesthetically pleasing, but their impurities make them inappropriate for use in your aquarium. Sea sand, painted gravel and glass pebbles can all have a detrimental impact on your aquarium.
Deep layers of gravel can pose a significant danger to your fish. Food particles can sink into a less oxygenated area. Over time, this can produce a rotten egg smell that can kill your fish.

Aquarium Gravel Cleaning

Did you know your aquarium gravel you've just bought to put in the aquarium have been in the wash first? Don't worry, it only takes a few simple steps.
Difficulty: Easy
Time Required: 30 minutes
Here's How:

1. Purchase enough gravel to cover the aquarium bottom approximately three inches deep.
2. If you don't already have one, purchase a 5 gallon bucket and label it for aquarium use only. Aquarium buckets should never have soap in them.
3. Place a large clean sieve, at least 6 inches across, over the bucket. Fill the sieve half full of gravel.
4. Pour water over the gravel in the sieve, while gently shaking it. Rinsing the gravel over the bucket rather than over a drain, allows gravel that slips through the sieve to be caught instead of going down the drain. Continue pouring water over the gravel until the water runs clear. Several washings are usually required.
5. Once the water runs clear, the gravel is ready to be used. It may be placed directly into the tank or in a clean bucket or container.
6. Repeat steps three through five until you have washed enough gravel to fill the aquarium three inches deep.

Tips:

1. A rule of thumb for the amount of gravel to use is one pound of gravel per each gallon of water.
2. Old buckets may be used if they are thoroughly cleaned with bleach, rinsed well, and allowed to air dry.

What You Need:

• 6" or larger sieve
• 5 gallon bucket